Home Sweet Ganta

Well I might be a little overdue for a blog and hope you readers can find forgiveness in your heart. In my defense imagine blogging from Bluffton and trying to come up with entertaining stories every couple weeks. I might as well get the big question out of the way, yes Im doing wonderful over here and still praising God for this awesome opportunity.

Might as well start off with the fam. Alfonzo and Josephy recently started school and both come home with tons of energy that has been accumulating all day. Alfonzo plays football (soccer) with friends in the evenings. Josephy prefers hanging around the house playing with Chu-Ku, Levi Jr., and other neighborhood kids. Chu-Kus english has immensely improved and I can actually understand half of his demands which are easier just to ignore. Levi Jr. is almost a year old and is so close to walking. He still likes to cry at 5 in the morning and I’m worried that when I get to the states I won’t be able to sleep without the now soothing wails. Rose is still the best cook I know in Liberia. Levi is still wheeling-n-dealing out of his shop in Ganta.  Regrettably I don’t have the time, energy, and readers attention to go through everyone who I consider as family here.  

I’m blogging right now from Levis shop because of the current electrical situation at the house. The wire that runs between our supplier, the local gas station, and the house has been stolen twice in the last 3 months. Lots of things are new around the shop. Levis latest venture is money transferring. For the low rate of 10% customers can send money to other major towns across Liberia. Using a complex system with spreadsheets and internet would be way too easy so whenever a customer sends the money we just make a fuzzy phone call which on average consists of 3 whats??, 2 can you spell that? and possibly getting hung up on because the person can’t understand me. It reminds me of playing the telephone game in sunday school. By the time the customer relays the name to me, I relay the info to the head office in Monrovia, they relay it to the field office, the sender relays the secret code and amount to the receiver, and the receiver comes into the field office and demands money. Consequently I now feel prepared to take on customer service jobs.

The LEAD demonstration farm has been filled with both successes and failures. Neighbors are already asking for the corn seed we are producing and multiplying. The pigs are all alive and healthy but growing at a surprisingly slow rate. We recently had a caretaker switch. Yebozee moved to Ganta to finish his last 2 years of high school and a young man named Peter enthusiastically picked up where Yebozee left off. The Cabbage suffered as it ripened because of weather conditions but it pulled through in the end with an average yield. The neglected tomatoes only produced enough to make seeds for next round. Next week we are executing the 3^rd replant. The first try was thwarted by misinformation and the second by the plague of termites.  We are still in search of a farm manager which is ironic given the high unemployment rate.

Things are getting pretty exciting because of the upcoming elections. The big 3 canidates have each made a trip to Ganta. Each candidate seems to have an equal amount of support, however some supporters are crazier than others. Prince Johnson’s supporters consist mostly of youths who ride motorbikes. They welcomed their leader to town by tying palm branches to their bikes and speeding up and down the streets yelling “monkey should go to forest, it is baboons time.” Monkey referring to President Sirleaf and Baboon, which is somehow better, refers to Prince Johnson. When Ellen came to town her supporters paraded through the streets with green hats and Unity Party flags. What few motorbike supporters she had rode around with passengers carrying a bullhorn yelling slogans. George Weah of the CDC party was welcomed by the footballers who worship the ex-star. George played for Chelsea and was awarded the World’s Best Footballer in the 90’s. He is running with ex-president Tubmans nephew William who draws support from the people who benefited from his uncle’s corrupt government in the 60’s. I have been in my share of heated political arguments taking the side opposite of the other debater.  In all seriousness I would appreciate prayers for a peaceful election.

Hopefully I’ll be feeling this ambitious in a few weeks so I blog again.

-Keep your stick on the ice. 

T-Minus 2 Months

Happy May everyone!

As I write this I’m sitting in Uncle Levi’s Business Center. Work on the farm is finished for the day and I find myself most evenings helping Levi out in his shop. A few weeks ago one of his employees quit which left him with only Oliver. Oliver is 19 and works after school gets out.  Words cannot explain how much of an organized mess Liberian business is. Who needs labels when you can just memorize or make up prices for things? Just when I think I have memorized all the prices someone comes in and asks for something I don’t know the price of. Here at Levi’s Business Center we sell everything from scratch cards, phones, batteries, tv’s, generators, voltage regulators, fans, chargers, dvd players, headphones, and much more. We also provide cell phone charging and money changing services. Most people come in looking for wholesale scratch cards. You can buy a pack of Cellcom cards for 45 US but has a 50 dollar value if sold individually. Lonestar is a little more stingy at 47 bucks for a pack worth 50. A pack is either comprised of 10 five dollar cards, 10 cards with 5 tear off dollar pieces, or Cellcom has a pack of 10 cards with each card carrying 10 separate 50 cent pieces. There is also the wholesale transfer which is done thru text message. Its retail value is 40 but is sold here for 38. Then there are the retail card sales. There are the usual 5 US cards, then things get a little more complicated.  Lonestar dollar cards are sold for 75LD while Cellcom dollar cards are sold for 70LD. However a if a dollar bill is given the person still owes you 15 more LD for Lonestar or 10 additional LD for Cellcom. When changing dollar bill they are only worth 60LD even though the rate is 72. Libercell dollar cards are sold for 80LD but are pretty rare. Lonestar has a card that has 50LD printed on it but is actually sold for 60LD. Cellcom has an equally confusing card that is has 35LD printed but is sold for 40. Lots of the older folks who have cell phones come in wanting a 50 cent transfer that is done via text message and is sold for 40LD. Money changing is the most tedious considering the 72LD to 1US rate. However if someone wants to make a large purchase in LD the rate changes to 73. The phone charging rate is 20LD but if the person “begs you” they can usually have it for 15. The shop is usually ran off a central generator and if it’s on, a huge guy is sure to walk in and ask for his electric money. When the central power isn’t on Levi has a 500watt Chinese generator that needs to rest ever couple hours and needs frequent adjustments but that’s what’s expected from a 100 generator.

Last week I underwent the official Liberian Legal ticketing process.  Upon reaching the immigration checkpoint I have to go through everyday to get to the farm a man stopped me from passing and asked me where my helmet was. I told him I forgot it and will be sure to wear it next time. I asked him who he was so he quickly whipped out his Liberian National Police ID. I begged him to let me pass but he was being pretty strict. He demanded my keys and of course I refused because that would give him leverage and I would be forced to pay a bribe. This of course didn’t make him too happy. I told him it wasn’t protocol for him to have my keys unless I had a written violation. He explained to me he was just an arresting officer and not a ticketing officer so he couldn’t give me a ticket.  I told him to arrest me so I could go through the legal process and be on my way so I could keep working to help his country. He refused to take me through the legal process and refused to let me pass which tells me he is just looking for a bribe. I decided to try and wait him out so I sat at the checkpoint for about a half hour. If the officers want to collect a bribe they just grab the motorbike key which gives them instant leverage. The driver doesn’t get the key back till he goes inside or around the corner where the bribe is negotiated or exchanged. Normally I would just pay the bribe and get on with life but for some reason I decided to test them. Taxi drivers almost always have to pay something before the gate is lifted and is usually done through a handshake if the driver is frequently passing or if the driver rarely passes and doesn’t know the officers the price gets raised. Witnessing all of this while waiting is tough. Finally the officer suggested I drive him into the station so he could issue me a ticket. I counter-suggested since I didn’t have a helmet I couldn’t drive so we should take a motorcycle taxi to the station. He agreed and we got the next cycle to stop. The driver looked at me and started negotiating price. I looked at the officer and told him since he is arresting me he has to pay the taxi to take me in to the station.  After some debate the officer agreed and we were off to the station. Once at the station he referred me to the ticketing officer who made me wait about another half hour before calling me into his office and issuing me a ticket. He took my License after writing the violation for not wearing a helmet and not obeying the officer. I tried to explain that the officer was giving me an unlawful command but soon gave up the argument because it was almost 11. Once getting the ticket I was free to go but knowing I would have problems back at the checkpoint I got the ticketing officers number. I got a taxi back to the checkpoint, picked up my helmet on the way, but sure enough they wouldn’t let me pass even though I showed them my ticket. I told him he was embarrassing himself by not following protocol and had him call the ticketing officer. After talking with the ticketing officer, he let me pass. The next week I made my way to the Guinea border to the Finance office where the ticket was to be paid. After finding out where the ticket needed to be paid, the employees informed me the man who writes the receipts is out for lunch. I had them call him and just like I had expected he claimed he “was coming.” I waited another half hour before the receipt man arrived. He collected my 2,500 LD and wrote me the receipt. I then rode back to the station to get my license back. The original ticketing officer wasn’t there of course but another man got into his office.  After presenting the payment receipt the man started looking for my license. He removed a few books and clipboards from the desk, lifted the tablecloth and shuffled through the poorly hidden stash of licenses. Of course he couldn’t find it so we called the original ticketing officer who reassured him it was on the desk. We then removed the remaining book, clipboards, and typewriter from the desk and removed the whole tablecloth.  We finally found it and the officer handed it to me and I was quickly on my way.

Farming is going really well compared to the Indiana farmers. We are demonstrating nursery techniques for cabbage such as compost bags and early teeming. We planted the Tomato nursery last week and will soon be demonstrating different nursery techniques. Groundbreaking on the Pig house happened last week and it’s a rush to get it up and the zinc over it before rainy season.

I can’t believe I’m coming home it less than 2 months!!

Breaking News

Greetings from Liberia, Africa. Thank God for rain! March is considered the hottest month and in April the rains begin to come and cool things down.

First off I would like to inform everyone of my personality change. I would like to begin with the definitions of two different personalities.

in·tro·vert   

[n., adj. in-truh-vurt; v. in-truh-vurt]  Show IPA

–noun

1. a shy person.

2. Psychology . a person characterized by concern primarily with his or her own thoughts and feelings ( opposed to extrovert).

ex·tro·vert   

[ek-struh-vurt, -stroh-]  Show IPA

–noun

1. an outgoing, gregarious person.

2. Psychology . a person characterized by extroversion;  a person concerned primarily with the physical and social environment ( opposed to introvert).

 One of the first questions I was asked when applying for this internship was, “Do you consider yourself an introvert of extrovert?” It didn’t take me long to respond “extrovert.” I would think most of my readers who know me would agree to this statement.  The Liberian culture has put my personality to the test. 

I have always heard or read about friend based cultures but never really understood how social they really were. In public it is impossible to simply walk down the street without being confronted by a possible friend. The close friends I have make it a point to call me quite often to make sure I’m doing something and I’m not bored. If I stay home in the evening, choosing not to be social, it usually consists of Josefy and Alfonzo coming into my room to listen to music, play cards, or play with my camera. Between work, friends, and new brothers this leaves no time to be alone. On Friday I was so desperate to be alone I traveled 2 hours to the mountains to be alone. On my way home I decided to stop at ABC to talk to George. He asked what I had been doing all day and when I told him he asked me who I went with. I responded “I went by myself.” With a confused look on his face he asked “Why.” I was embarrassed to respond “because I wanted to be alone.” He couldn’t believe it and warned me it was very risky to be alone. It is very rare to see a Liberian by themself.   Even if there is nothing to do it is more preferable to do nothing rather than be alone. 

In conclusion I have placed myself in the category of “introvert” due to the culture I am living in.

In other news the Ivory Coast War seems to be drawing to a close. The incumbent president Gbagbo has been captured by the internationally recognized president Ouattara. Just last weekend I visited a refugee camp in Bahn with my friend Musa. Most of the refugees there have only been there a few months and their only complaint was the bulgur wheat they were given to eat. Musa grew up in a refugee camp in Guinea where he learned French and worked in PR for a few refugee NGO’s. We spent most of the time talking to refugees and toured the camp at the end. It was encouraging to see them building chairs, tables, and shelters for themselves. In general, I was very impressed with the organization of the refugee NGO’s who are responsible for everything from clean water to sanitation. Overall it was very sad to see people displaced from their homes but praise God for people who are willing to help. Hopefully the disarmament will happen in good time and the refugees can return home.

In farm news the pigs LEAD plans to purchase were born last week, the cabbage nursery was started yesterday, and the pig pen construction is starting today. Things are gearing up for a hopefully plentiful rainy season. 

Cheers

Brett

2 Months

Well its time for another update!! It seems like I have been here more than 2 months. I expected time to be flying by but the last few weeks have been slow compared to the first month of my trip. Things that were interesting and out of the ordinary are now ordinary and a less exciting. I conclude that I’m beginning to feel at home compared to being in a foreign place.

A few weeks ago I made my final move to Ganta. I’m now residing at the Levi and Rose household in Peace Community, Ganta, Nimba County, Liberia. Levi and Rose have 5 children. Levi Jr. is 2 months old and loves to cry at 5 in the morning. Chu-Ku is 3 and was terrified of the big white man when he first saw me. Since then we have become friends mostly because he likes motorcycle rides and shiny tools. Josefy is 12 and loves to play football and do anything I do. Alfonzo is 15 and is pretty quiet. Shelly is 17 and my first official sister. Levi owns a gas station, cement store, scratch card store, and supplies local boys with money to change and scratch cards to sell. Rose is an awesome cook and has rice ready any hour of the day. My room is a wreck like normal and besides a mattress there is no furniture. I took my first official shower in Liberia at Levi’s house on March 5^th and it was epic. It took me a couple days to figure out the electricity situation. After asking Levi I found out we were getting power from the gas station down the road. Anytime during the day when someone wanted more than a couple gallons of gas they would turn the generator on and we would get 5 minuets of power. It then comes on around dark but off again around 1 a.m. when the station closes. Around 5 in the morning the taxis going to Monrovia start to roll through and we have power till about 6.

Last Friday we burned the farm. After making bamboo torches we set off into the bush lighting the dry leaves. Things heated up pretty quick but went out earlier than I liked. Afterwards it was a treasure hunt for any animals the fire had killed. The hunt yielded 2 squirrels, 2 snails, 1 rat, and 1 cobra. Fortunately I had an excuse to leave early and miss their feast of bush meat and GB.

Last weekend I ventured up to Yekepa to visit Kent and Jan at ABC. It was great to see familiar faces and chat about adventures. Jan spoiled me rotten of course and fed me American food that can only be made from scratch such as tortilla chips and fresh bread. Sunday we borrowed the ABC truck to explore the old Lamco iron mines. We traveled up in the mountains where I could look across the horizon and see Ivory Coast and Guinea. We met Josef who lives in a 5x6 tin shack but guards 2 generators, 1 cellphone tower, and an air conditioned shipping container that holds all the computers and switchboards for the tower.

Monday was an adventure for sure! LEAD wants to introduce groundhog farming to Liberia but due to the current Ivory Coast conflict our contact there cannot get us groundhogs. By the grace of God I met a farmer from Yekepa named Bill. He claimed that there was 1 person who raises groundhogs in Liberia. So Monday morning Bill and I left from Yekepa and traveled an hour in the bush before reaching Zortapa. Bill asked to drive and it was quite a humbling experience to ride passenger on my own bike through rigorous trails. The trip turned out to be very productive, hopefully I will be a groundhog farmer.

The Liberian culture seems to thrive on relationship building and since being in Ganta I have embraced the lifestyle. Thus far I have met:

Eric who runs an awesome breakfast restaurant in Ganta

Arhwin who is Indian and works at a the Methodist hospital in Ganta

Harvand who is Phillipino and cooks for a big mining company in Saniquille

Augustine who is a student at ABC and is a preacher

George who goes to ABC but is from Ganta and is a heck of a mountain climber

SE or Essey who works at the carwash and washes my motorbike for 100LD

Prince who is just a good friend and drives a motorcycle taxi

Melvin who runs Hotel Alvino for his brother

Musa who owns the motorcycle dealership

George who is working on the farm so he can one day go to school

Nyeh who is George’s younger brother and wants to go to school

Barcelona who’s name I cant pronounce so I call him by his favorite football team

Gono who is the education coordinator for LEAD in Nimba County

Winifred who is the secretary at LEAD in Nimba County

Daniel who is the program coordinator for LEAD in Nimba County

Prince who manages Uncle Levis Gas Station

Muhamad who is a Muslim and wants me to teach him how to plant corn

Pastor Wade who is my pastor at Trumpet Baptist church

These are only the names I can remember and I am horrible at memorizing names.

+38 Days

The last few weeks have been overwhelming but this week I will hopefully slow down. At noon on Friday the 4th Allen, Moses, Rick, Dave, and I left Monrovia to go to Ganta. I got to see the beautiful countryside for the first time. Firestone Plantation went on for miles as did Charles Taylor’s farm property. We stopped in Gbanga for refreshments and a quick break before tackling the worst stretch of road between Gbanga and Ganta. The trip finally ended at Mr. Blasing’s Farm. The Blasing family donated 25 acres towards LEAD’s research farm.  We spent the remaining daylight hours exploring his farm and working out the details of the ground-breaking ceremony. The farm was incredible to say the least. About 30 acres of jungle were demolished to make way for cabbage, corn, and peppers. Everything was planted in mounded rows. An intricate series of deep trenches were dug to drain the swamp. I was amazed that there was not a power tool or a single piece of machinery on the whole farm. Our Friday night reservations at Alvino’s hotel fell through but we found Sam’s Guesthouse would be suitable after an hour of searching.  We left soon after settling in because Allen had reserved a spot at the local radio station to promote the LEAD research farm with a live interview with Rick.

Saturday the 5th I met my future host family. Levi and Rose are members of Trumpet Baptist church and agreed to host me quite some time ago before I even met them.  They own Uncle Levis Gas Station, a cement distributing center, and a scratch card store. 

The groundbreaking ceremony started at noon so I didn’t have much time to get acquainted with Levi and Rose. We picked up a local journalist on our way to the farm. We showed up to the farm at noon and the festivities began. The whole farming community had gathered to show support for our project. I praise God for the groundwork He has done in every heart of that community to open them up to us. The ceremony traditionally started with a meal. I had GB for the first and hopefully last time. The ceremony lasted about 2 hours. Many farmers from the community spoke to encourage us. Grandpa Blasing offered his encouragement in the Mono (The local/tribal language). The church choir sang. The Preacher blessed the land. Rick, Wessah, Allen, and Dave all spoke on behalf of LEAD. We then proceeded to the jungle so Rick could cut the ribbon and I could take the first machete swing at the bush. Most of the local farmers are young and I already feel a strong connection with them. They teased me about soft American hands and kept explaining to me how hard it was to farm in Liberia. After the ceremony I bought 2 machetes for 8 bucks and got them sharpened at the market. I also went to the local motorcycle dealer and got a bike rented for the week.  Saturday night we had a meeting of the minds with Wessah, Rick, Dave, and myself to discuss the details of the farm. The meeting was very productive and we all agreed on most issues. The rest of the week was spent contracting out brushing as well as other jobs and ensuring their follow through.

The weekend of the 11^th Nerwah Tarlo picked up Kent, Jan, and I to spend the weekend at his farm. We were warmly welcomed at the farm with dancing and singing. We had Spagetti, with Spam substituting for the sausage, for supper. Saturday we toured the farm I had GB again for supper that evening. I’m beginning to train my throat to swallow the tasteless slimy food. On Sunday, Nerwah took us back to Ganta.

My time in Ganta was very productive and I now feel the hardships of the average Liberian farmer. We traveled around to many farms throughout the week and personally interviewed the farmers. A lot of Liberians were entertained by 2 huge white guys riding a tiny motorbike.

Wednesday the 16^th my focus was immediately switched from farming to LEAD’s upcoming international conference called “Africa’s Marketplace Revolution.” My first assignment on Thursday was to work with Andrew Davis of LEAD to pick up 19 guests from the airport arriving from Ghana and Nigeria. I contacted Andrew around 10 and he assured me the bus he had lined up would carry 35 persons so I assumed it would carry everybody and their luggage from the airport. At 11 we walked a few blocks to the bus to start the journey. Much to my dismay the bus was very small with no luggage rack or storage compartments. When I counted the seats I came up with 20. I then looked at Andrew and asked how many people it would hold. He then looked at the driver and asked him the same question. The driver then hesitated before he said 35. Andrew then turns to me and says “35.” Trying to be calm I asked Andrew again how many did “He” think the bus would hold. He then counted the seats for himself and reported back “20.” Now that we had that established I frantically called Derek and asked him to use the LEAD jeep to haul the visitors’ luggage. Luckily he could manage without it and we were off to the airport by 11:45 with a small bus and jeep. The rest of the trip went smoothly and all the guests arrived safely at their accommodations.

Unfortunately the President, Madam Ellen Johnson Sirleaf couldn’t speak at our conference but she sent the Chairman of the National Investment Commission of Liberia. Ever since Thursday, I have been playing the role of “host” and “taxi driver” to the international guests. My day would normally start around 5:30 so I could be to my first pick-up by 6:30. By 9 all the guest would be at the conference and I would have time to socialize with Liberian businessmen and share about what LEAD does and how it can help them. The conference ended around 5 and my job would turn to “taxi driver.” Thankfully I was home by 9 on most nights. If anyone out there wants a challenge try fitting 13 adults into a Toyota Land Cruiser.

As of now, most of the guests have returned home and my role in Monrovia is quickly coming to a close. I’m hoping to take possession of a 2005 Kawasaki KLR 650 by the end of the week. Once I have the bike registered and plated I will hopefully leave for Ganta on Wednesday the 2^nd of March.

I'm in great spirits thanks to Gods faithfulness and the prayers coming from home. 

Week #2

Sunday evening was epic to say the least. After church Allen invited me over for lunch to meet his family. He then took me to 2011 County Meet finals at SKD stadium. Since getting in was so difficult last time Allen had the brilliant idea of going early to avoid the rush. We took our seats around 3 in just enough time to catch the last part of kickball finals. In Liberia the women play kickball and men football. After kickball the 3^rd place match began. By this time the stands were filling up and the atmosphere was building. Around 5 the President of Liberia made her grand entrance to stadium by declaring free attendance. It was immediate chaos but I have to admit she knows how to gain popularity with the common Liberian. My comfortable, roomy concrete step soon turned into a crammed, shoulder to shoulder, knee to knee, ordeal. Around 6 the players entered the field that was filled with applause and cheering. Every time an exciting event would take place everyone would stand, giving the people standing in the entryways a few more inches to creep forward to catch a better look. This would ultimately let more people into the already crowded event. Before the game the President, Ellen Johnson Sirleaf, walked onto the field and shook hands with each of the players in the finals. The first half neither team scored which left much tension in the air between the fans. I was cheering for Nimba County who happened to be the defending champions. For some reason everyone around me was cheering for Margibi County and they were not afraid to let me know it. About 5 minutes into halftime the power failed and the stadium soon lit up with cell phone lights. Everyone stayed fairly calm until the power returned 15 minuets later. The last half was also scoreless and Allen and I decided we had enough excitement for the night so we left. As we reached the jeep we soon realized we were not going anywhere because we were parked in. A very helpful man who wanted to make some money made some phone calls and searched around for 20 minuets to find the owner of the vehicle who parked us in. Allen compensated him with 15 LD.

On the way home I pictured myself at Lucas Oil Stadium while attending the Super Bowl. I had paid about 100 USD for my ticket and was comfortably enjoying the pre-game warm-ups. I had always wanted to attend a Super Bowl but never wanted to spend that much money. This would be a dream come true. Barrak Obama then makes a surprise appearance and invited everyone into the stadium to enjoy the game for free. Colts and Patriot fans pack the stadium as the gates are swung wide open. President Obama walks onto the field before the game to personally greet all the players. At halftime the power goes out and the whole stadium goes pitch black. I can’t help but wonder how Americans would react to a situation like this?

I have a confession to make. Monday I told a bold faced, cold lie. While conducting my consumer surveys around Central Monrovia I found myself surrounded by 15 Liberian young adults. We were having a very pleasant conversation about agriculture and Liberians diet. One young man unexpectedly asked if I was from America. My response was “yes” and it was immediately followed with a slew of intimidating questions. “What do you think about President Obama?” Did you vote for Obama?” How great is president Obama”? I paused for a moment as I looked at the eager faces and didn’t think twice about lying. I told them all how great of a president we had and how proud I was to have him leading our country in the right direction. Of course I voted for him! This was followed by a small celebration as everyone was pleased to hear my response. This was obviously a straight up lie. I regret to inform you of my shortcomings and will try and do better next time.

Most of this week I have been walking around Central Monrovia with my trusty clipboard and pen taking surveys of average Liberians. I get a lot of funny looks around here just like I do in the States so I guess some things never change. Most conversations start off rough but once I smile and offer a Liberian handshake they warm up pretty quick. I explain to them I am a volunteer for Province Baptist Church who works in agriculture and need to know what Liberians like to eat so I know what to grow. It always takes a couple seconds for things to click but in most cases they are willing to lend me their time. While taking this survey I leaned that rice and palm butter is their favorite fruit or vegetable. Liberians are not health brainwashed like Americans and are happy with whatever is put in front of them as long as it includes rice.

Overall week 2 has been full of adventures and learning.

-Brad

Organized Chaos

Well I finally made it! For anyone traveling to Liberia use army duffle bags and dress in camouflage upon arrival. Evidently something called PAE comes here from America to train the Liberian military and everyone loves them. For this reason I was quickly waved though customs while everyone else had their bags checked. Monrovia isn’t much different then most big cities in America. Bad drivers, taxies everywhere, commerce on every street corner, and businesses fill the streets every morning.

Pastor Sam is very hospitable and I am very blessed to have air conditioning at night. His two nephews, Lee and Sporty are also living with him. These past few days have been an adventure to say the least. Sunday Derek and I toured the city in the jeep and I quickly learned the simple pattern of streets. We then headed to Pastor Sam’s house. It’s only a 10 min drive from LEAD on a Sunday. On Monday morning Pastor Sam and I went to the church, also where LEAD is, around 9. Morning traffic into town is hectic to say the least. It took us 40 minutes of weaving through pedestrians, taxies, motorcycles, and trucks surrounded by smoke clouds. Getting a motorcycle should cut the time in half because they can drive in between stopped cars.

Once at LEAD, I met the very professional staff and learned the snap-shake that is customary, even among businessmen. I quickly made a fool of myself as I walked up the stairs and discovered the low ceiling with the top of my head. Monday was a crazy day to say the least! I learned how to do simple business, such as exchange money, and bribe the local police. I also ate a dish called fufuo for my first and last time. Monday night the LEAD staff and I attended a soccer game. After attending the game I understand why we use turnstiles in America. Evidently stadiums hire martial arts teams to do security to fend off rioters. It was hysterical watching 3 guys in white robes trying to sort through who had tickets and who didn’t then try and let just the people with tickets in. I would say about two out of three people actually had tickets to the game. The game was wild, Nimba county won 1-0 over Gran-Bassa. 

Tuesday was spent at LEAD helping distribute underwriting letters, and getting supplies for Derek’s birthday party. Shopping in Monrovia takes twice as long and is twice as frustrating. It made me think of when the whole town of Bluffton went into chaos when Wal-Mart was rearranged and it took 5 extra minutes to find things.  Over here to get burrito ingredients we had to go to 3 grocery stores and one produce stand.

The motorcycle shopping has been very discouraging to say the least. All the dealers have a team of uneducated workers to assemble the bike. All the suspensions are stiff, clutches are not adjusted, no oil in the crankcase, chains are too tight, and every part is only finger tightened. I managed to get a look at the assembly room where I found 3 piles of parts on the ground. Apparently they do not have tools or a work bench. I was promised by a salesman the bike assembled for me would be tightened to specs and everything adjusted properly (we will see how that pans out). I have seen some Yamahas and Suzukis around but nothing in good condition.

Walking around downtown is crazy with money changers and scratchcard salesmen every two yards. Cell phones, passport photos, and pirated dvds are seen at least every block. Lebanese own many of the big businesses and hire Liberians to sell their goods and take care of security. Everything here is imported which makes a horrible impact on Liberia’s economy.  The only products that are not imported are bottled water, Club beer, and some produce.

The English here sounds like a completely different language and my name has turned from Brett to Brad because t’s are often left out or changed. When a Liberian is talking directly to me I can understand them if they talk slow. From Liberian to Liberian it is too broken and fast for me to understand. I’m in good sprits and appreciate all the encouragement from e-mails, letters, and facebook messages!!

-And always remember, keep your stick on the ice      Brett